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Hong Kong: In this land where everyday speech is peppered with old Chinese sayings, and chefs are among the world's most inventive, I was told on two occasions: "Anything that shows its back to heaven is cooked and eaten here." Another favourite is "The only thing with four legs we do not eat is a table." That's not too comforting for timid diners, I know, but I must say I have thoroughly enjoyed most of my Hong Kong dining experiences.