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They call it the Land Between, these fascinating New Territories bridging the old and new, a region of dramatic contrasts between teeming Kowloon and the border of mainland China. For those who live here it is mostly farm country. For visitors, it is one marvellous scene upon another. Ripe for the pages of National Geographic are the rice paddies worked by hand, the duck farms, forested mountains and ancient temples of rural China. And walled villages, not replicas whose residents go home to modern plumbing at night, but the real thing habited now pretty much as they were 400 years ago. It is also an area of transition, the old-fashioned quaintness occasionally disturbed by jarring new towns; commercial, industrial and residential communities designed to draw families from overcrowded cities in the south.