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Big Island of Hawaii: A gasp behind caused me to turn suddenly, thinking my companion had tripped. Instead he was staring in audible disbelief at the yawning canyon ahead. This is a man who has travelled to places I only dream of visiting one day, but still the Kilauea Caldera with its dramatically smouldering pit takes his breath away. It is the crater's size, (4km at the widest point) he says, that has him open-mouthed. Also he hadn't expected to be so close to the edge so soon.