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ZUIDER NOW A ZEE IN NAME ONLY

Enkuizen, Holland: In the past, tourists haven't exactly flocked to northern Holland. Usually they base themselves in Amsterdam, taking side trips to The Hague and Rotterdam, and perhaps a mini-excursion or two to see the windmills, bulb fields and cheese markets. But few, I am told, explore the Zuider Zee, which many a Dutch person will tell you is the country's most interesting region. Certainly this area of dikes and polders has a fascinating past, steeped as it is in stories of hardy souls who lived off the sea while in constant threat of losing everything to it.